Flyer Photos

In nearly every lost cat case I handle, the owner has hundreds of cute photos of their cat, but rarely of the kitty in a position a stranger would recognize if the cat were out running across a street or walking past a doorbell camera.

One key way to prepare is to get the ideal image of your cat now in case you ever need it for a lost cat flyer or big posters. The most useful image would be your cat standing in a side-view (including their tail) facing the camera.

Take a photo of your cat standing or walking from a side view showing their face and body markings. This way, you have the perfect photo in case you ever need to make a lost cat poster. Shoot the photo against a plain white background without clutter. You want a clear image of your cat as it will be seen out in the world by others.

Before And After a Move

If you move, make sure to keep your cat contained in a separate room with a sign on the door on moving day. Even packing up the house in preparation for a move can stress a cat.

If you plan to let your cat out at your new home, keep them inside at least two weeks, no matter how much they may protest. After that time, go with them as a chaperone and take note on which way they tend to go as they leave the door, how they behave, where they seek cover, and what areas they tend to prefer.

Note Your Cat’s Habits

If you have a cat who is allowed outside, practice petting them while they’re out, so they learn to let you approach them without fear. Give them a treat, then walk away so they don’t think of you as the prison warden coming to take them back inside. Get them used to being picked up and put back down. Teach them to come to your call using clicker training.

Safe Transport

This sounds basic, but you’d be surprised how many pet owners put their cats at risk during even routine vet visits. They can quickly slip out when a door is opened (see case of cat lost at a gas station at night (below).

Cat carriers have been known to break open during traffic accidents, in vet parking lots, and on conveyor belts at airports. No matter how crabby your cat becomes with confinement, make sure you transport them in a secure carrier.

Why it seems intuitive to buckle up the carrier with the seat belt, don’t do this unless the manufacturer can provide you with a crash test video demonstrating structural integrity. A seatbelt can actually crush most carriers in an accident. Instead put the carrier on the floor, behind the front passenger or driver’s seat.

Collar And Microchip

Even indoor-only cats should have a collar and microchip. Why? Because if they do ever slip outside, they’re at risk of one day ending up in an animal shelter months after the owner has given up searching.

Microchipping is equivalent to a serial number used for identification only.  Microchips are not GPS trackers and are only detectable with microchip scanners used by shelters, vets, and rescue groups. Get your cat chipped ASAP, then immediately go home and register the chip into your name. Otherwise, it is just a number with no way to find you.

Each time you move you will need to update it to your new address and phone number. Even if the shelter chipped your cat before you adopted them, you will still need to get the chip into your name with your own details.

Prepare A Lost Cat Kit

Store photos, microchip number and a mock-up lost cat flyer with your cat’s Emergency Kit where it’s easy to access. Should you ever need the info, this kit will save you precious time and tons of stress.

To be truly prepared and save yourself weeks of mistakes and setbacks, download the Lost Cat Kit which includes a detailed booklet and video of how to use traps and equipment. If your cat slips out, it’s key to start with the right strategy for your cat’s personality + geography while avoiding the typical myths and bad advice (such as putting out food and kitty litter).

Have A Search Map Ready

If you have an indoor-only cat, be ready with a satellite map of your Search Radius. With indoor cats who escape, they are most often hiding within a 250-foot radius of the escape point. Outdoor access cats usually have a larger territory (especially males and younger cats) so they are more likely need a 500 to 1,000 ft search radius. Use this mapping tool to outline your home and search circle so you’re ready and focused.

Learn Your Risk Zones

If you live near train tracks, a creek, or powerline easement, be aware as these are typical coyote highways in many states and cities. Learn what kind of terrain is nearby and if your cat goes outside, especially at night, take heed of these high-risk areas.

New Cat Flight Risk

If you’re fostering or adopting a new cat, gradual acclimation is key to prevent escapes at new homes. Cats can escape tiny spaces of even 2 inches and have even been known to slip under doors and into walls and pipes.

Start a new cat in one room so they can feel like they have their own space before you give them free roam of the house. Block off “unders” such as beneath beds and couches as cats may stay there and be difficult to interact with in a productive way. Give them time and space to adjust at their own speed. Keep the lights dim and set up their water, food and litter at least 3 feet apart. Post a note on the door, so everyone knows to keep door shut and gradually build their confidence using natural cat play progression of hunt, catch kill, eat.

Bird Alerts

Should your cat ever escape, and you have no idea which way they went, listen to the birds. They will issue raucous alarm calls to let each other know there is a cat in the area. Blue jays and mockingbirds are especially vocal when they spot a cat with specific alarm calls you can learn to recognize.

Examples of various bird alarms are included in the eBook, How to Find a Lost Cat by the Lost Cat Finder.

About Kim Freeman, Pet Detective for Lost Cats